• I have heard Laverda 750cc engines are slow and blow up.
• How is the oil filter conversion kit better for my engine ?
• What oil type should I use in my Zane Laverda ?
• What is the difference between a type 1 and a type 3 750cc crank ?
• I have problems starting the bike.
• I have done the above and the bike still is difficult to start.
• I have heard gearbox’s break 4^th and top gear ?

I have heard Laverda 750cc engines are slow and blow up.

We do not hold with this view! They do (in standard form) have some faults which may or may not be a problem to any owner.  They are exceptional handling bikes which can be made both reliable and very quick.  Add to this joining an exclusive club where the production run was highly limited (ceasing early 2001), we feel they are undervalued with you getting a lot of “pure sports bike” for your money. 

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How is the oil filter conversion kit better for my engine ?

The standard filter restricts the amount of oil allowed into the crank and can lead to oil starvation and local oil/bearing over heating, this in turn leads to bearing/crank failure.

The oil conversion kit allows more oil to flow, but still filters. 

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What oil type should I use in my Zane Laverda ?

We recommend a semi synthetic oil like “Rock oil TRM” which is a 10w/40 weight oil.   We use this oil in our race bikes.  You should however warm the engine carefully until the temp gauge has shown normal running for some minutes before giving the motor full throttle.

We strongly suggest you do NOT use fully synthetic as the friction modifiers can seriously effect the clutch plates.  

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What is the difference between a type 1 and a type 3 750cc crank ?

The type 1 is the most common crank contained in 90% of Laverda 750cc bikes sold and has a small but relevant design fault. The end, which carries the ignition pick up, is only 10mm in diameter. Under certain conditions this can snap NO DAMAGE TO THE MOTOR NORMALLY OCCURS it is just annoying as the motor will need a complete strip and rebuild. 

Below is a picture of the two crank ends side by side. The right hand crank is the thin ended type 1, with the end clearly broken off. The type 3 crank end on the right is clearly thicker at the shear point.  

The type 3 crank end that we manufacture is a complete cure for this problem and can be supplied;

1. As just the end, for you to assemble to your own crank.
2. Fitted and balanced by us after receiving your old crank or,
3. Built into your engine, after you ship the entire power plant to us.  

The type 3 crank end has a smaller (lighter) rotor trigger plate, and a modified clutch casing (machined for new, larger, seal).  

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I have problems starting the bike. 

Laverda, in their infinite wisdom decided to;

• Under power the starter motor (good quality but a bit minimalist)
• Use electrical connectors that are not the best fit into the back of the starter solenoid
• Use a side stand down cut out relay that is very prone self destruction even with gentle care and use.
• Use clutch with plates that stick together (common on other makes too though)
• and, for 650/668 engines they used a fragile spring to hold the starter clutch assembly together (even we agree this was just plain rubbish)

So we suggest that your first start of the day should be as follows.  It is a preventative help measure not a MUST DO.

1. Sit on bike.
2. Put up side stand.
3. Turn off headlights completely.
4. Pull clutch in.
5. Put bike in first gear.
6. Roll bike backwards to break the clutch free.
7. Put the bike in neutral.
8. Tap start button (do not hold it on).

The bike should now start without hesitation. If it doesn't start right away tap it again once or twice. However do not hold the starter button in for more than a few seconds. Very high current is being drawn and things could start to melt.

In extreme cases, perhaps after prolonged storage, it may be necessary to help the bike out a little. After freeing the clutch plates leave the bike in gear, release the clutch, and roll the bike back until you meet firm resistance. Like trying to bump-start a bike with a flat battery, giving the starter motor a good one and a half turns of run up before trying to get the bike over compression will ease its task. 

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I have done the above and the bike still is difficult to start ?

We make a side stand bypass kit which is cheap and very easy to fit this may be worth fitting before trying other routes.  

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I have heard gearbox’s break 4^th and top gear ?

We have seen 4 cases of 4^th gear shearing the gear dogs, all caused by down changes which were either done “clutchless” or in the 2 stroke manner enter the corner and bang down the box. First don’t clutchless down change period. Second only clutchless upshift from 3^rd gear if this is your style.

Second the bike is not a 2 stroke and has flywheels, so down shifting several gears at once will end in tears sooner or later. To make the most of the chassis you should be smooth and go down the box one gear at a time.

In my opinion the gearbox is perfectly up to more power than the bike can give it and is not a problem.   

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